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Training Swimmers Turn with a Clicker I came across this method of training the swimmers turn by way of several sources which I would like to acknowledge. I would like to thank the Scotia Dust Devils' for their training method using an adjustable shoot. The plans for this adjustable shoot can be found on i-Flyball under the Equipment > Shoot Plans heading. I would also like to give a big thanks to Jeni Rivett (from WOOF - Wacked Out On Flyball) for showing me how she trained her dog to do an excellent swimmers turn using a clicker. I've had my best luck using this method on new dogs - the verdict is still out for retraining but I'm having some progress. Shoot Work I have a very firm belief in using an adjustable shoot to teach swimmers turns and had good success in using the Scotia Dust Devils' method, and I started all new dogs, that were already retrieving balls, using this method. I first start out with the shoot at the lowest level (15 degrees incline) with the ball in the top position and with a small shoot jump in front of the shoot (about 6" tall). New dogs take to this incline with little or no problem and the length of the shoot (see above for plans) makes even the largest dogs have all four feet on the shoot. After they are consistently retrieving the ball from the shoot at this incline, usually about 2 or 3 sessions, I raise the shoot to the 30 degree incline. I leave the ball at the top position and use this level until the dog is confident at this incline (usually 4 to 6 sessions). I then raise the shoot to its highest level (45 degrees incline) and keep it at this level throughout the rest of the training. After the dog is confident at this level with the ball in the top position (4 to 6 sessions), I start lowering the ball over a period of 6 to 10 sessions to the lower ball positions. When the dog is retrieving the ball effectively after the above steps are completed, it is time to transition to a Flyball box. However, experience has shown that most dogs do not maintain a good turn during the transition to the box. Granted, the transition is a very easy one at this point but the turn may not be that good. Hence the use of the clicker for shaping and maintaining a good turn. Shoot Work with Clicker Before proceeding I would like to reiterate the fact that it is imperative that before moving on that the dog has all four feet on the shoot and is in a low swimmers turn. If you are sure the dog is ready to move on, the first step to complete the training is to now take the ball away. Next, lore the dog onto the shoot, just as they would if the ball were there and in the direction that they would naturally turn, then click and treat. I have found that a traffic cone placed in front of the shoot works very well at this point, and you may want to use a ball as a lore. It will be helpful if the dog is clicker savvy but even dogs that are not will quickly respond if you are using the right reward. Keep up this process using many repetitions without saying anything and using no commands. Once the dog is completing this behavior exactly the way you want introduce the word HIT just as their feet hit the shoot. It may take several more sessions until the dog knows what the word means. Slowly over several training sessions back the cone further and further away from the shoot until the dog does the turn without the cone and has all four feet on the shoot just as they would if they were retrieving a ball. It is important that you not move on to the box until you are confident that the dog knows what the word HIT means. At this point you should have a dog that will hit the shoot on the command HIT and there should be no props of any kind in use. Only at this point should you move to the Flyball box. Flyball Box Work with Clicker As you move on to each step in the process I have found that it may be necessary to back up and use the prop again. However, the time required to use it will be very short. First do a one hit test by not having any props and give the command HIT. The dog should run up to the Flyball box and do what it was trained to do on the shoot. If during this one hit test the dog does not have the proper turn, immediately go back to using the prop (cone) in front of the box. Make it close enough to the box that dog has to have all four feet on the box. Just as with the shoot, complete many repetitions and slowly move the cone back away from the box until the dog maintains the turn with out the prop. It is now time to introduce the ball into the equations. However, just as with the other steps, do not be surprised if the dog loses their turn during this transition. Just go back and add the prop (the cone). It may take a few repetitions until the dog is able to catch the ball consistently. Remember their focus was to hit the box and return to you quickly and now you've added a ball so it may take a little time. Once they are catching the ball start to move the prop away. This may seem like a very long process but I was able to complete the box training process (from the time I took the ball away in the Shoot Work with Clicker step) in two weeks with two or three a day training sessions. I used short sessions no more that 10 minutes each and I now have a dog that has a excellent consistent swimmers turn. Good Luck and Happy Racing! Larry Worrilow i-Flyball
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